{"id":3581,"date":"2026-06-20T03:08:08","date_gmt":"2026-06-20T03:08:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/khflix.net\/?p=3581"},"modified":"2026-06-20T03:08:08","modified_gmt":"2026-06-20T03:08:08","slug":"%f0%9f%8c%bchow-to-make-square-motif-runner-blouse-tunic-model%f0%9f%92%96%f0%9f%8c%b8%f0%9f%8c%ba","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/khflix.net\/?p=3581","title":{"rendered":"\ud83c\udf3cHow to Make Square Motif Runner, Blouse, Tunic Model\ud83d\udc96\ud83c\udf38\ud83c\udf3a"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

That is an excellent choice for a project! Using a single Square Motif Pattern<\/strong> to create three different items\u2014a Runner<\/strong>, a Blouse<\/strong>, and a Tunic<\/strong>\u2014demonstrates the incredible versatility of modular crochet. The key is choosing a motif that is light, airy, and easy to join.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I will detail the pattern for the “Lacy Mesh Square,”<\/strong> followed by specific assembly instructions for each of your desired models.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\n\n\n\n

\ud83d\udc8e Lacy Mesh Square Motif Tutorial<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

This square uses a clean, dense center and transitions into an open, granny-style mesh frame, making it lightweight for garments yet stable for runners.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Materials You’ll Need<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
    \n
  • Yarn:<\/strong> DK Weight (Size 3)<\/strong> or Sport Weight (Size 2)<\/strong> cotton or a blend is ideal for a blouse\/tunic drape. Worsted\/Aran (Size 4) is fine for a runner.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • Crochet Hook:<\/strong> The size appropriate for your yarn (e.g., 3.5 mm \u2013 4.0 mm for garments, 5.0 mm for a runner).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • Scissors, Tapestry Needle, Blocking Pins.<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n

    Key Crochet Terms<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
    Abbreviation<\/strong><\/td>Stitch Name<\/strong><\/td><\/tr><\/thead>
    ch<\/strong><\/td>Chain<\/td><\/tr>
    sl st<\/strong><\/td>Slip Stitch<\/td><\/tr>
    dc<\/strong><\/td>Double Crochet<\/td><\/tr>
    Cluster (Cl)<\/strong><\/td>3 dc worked into the same space<\/td><\/tr>
    Corner<\/strong><\/td>(Cl, ch 2, Cl)<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \n\n\n\n

    Part 1: Crocheting the Motif<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    Round 1: Foundation (Solid Center)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
      \n
    1. Start:<\/strong> Make a Magic Ring<\/strong>. ch 3<\/strong> (counts as dc). Work 15 dc<\/strong> into the ring.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    2. Finish:<\/strong> Pull the tail tight. Join with a sl st<\/strong> to the top of the ch 3. (16 sts).<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
      \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

      Round 2: Setting the First Clusters<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
        \n
      1. ch 3<\/strong> (counts as dc). Work dc<\/strong> in the next 3 dc stitches<\/strong> below.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
      2. Corner Space:<\/strong> ch 2<\/strong>.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
      3. Repeat:<\/strong> Work [dc in the next 4 dc sts, ch 2]<\/strong> 3 more times. (4 sides of 4 dc, 4 ch-2 spaces).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
      4. Finish:<\/strong> Join with a sl st<\/strong> to the top of the ch 3.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n

        Round 3: Defining the Lacy Square<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

        We begin the open mesh structure, placing the clusters into the gaps.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

          \n
        1. Move to Corner:<\/strong> sl st<\/strong> over the next 2 dc<\/strong> and sl st<\/strong> into the ch-2 corner space<\/strong>.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
        2. First Corner:<\/strong> ch 3<\/strong>. Work (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc)<\/strong> into the corner space.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
        3. Side:<\/strong> ch 1<\/strong>. Work Cluster (3 dc)<\/strong> into the space between the 2nd and 3rd dc of the side below. ch 1<\/strong>.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
        4. Repeat:<\/strong> Continue the sequence [Corner (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the next corner, ch 1, Cluster in the side gap, ch 1]<\/strong> 3 more times.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
        5. Finish:<\/strong> Join with a sl st<\/strong> to the top of the ch 3.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
          \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

          Round 4: Expanding the Mesh (Final Size)<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

          This round creates a clean, uniform edge perfect for joining.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

            \n
          1. Move to Corner:<\/strong> sl st<\/strong> over the next 2 dc<\/strong> and sl st<\/strong> into the ch-2 corner space<\/strong>.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
          2. First Corner:<\/strong> ch 3<\/strong>. Work (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc)<\/strong> into the corner space.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
          3. Side:<\/strong> Work [ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 space]<\/strong> across the side until you reach the next corner.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
          4. Repeat:<\/strong> Continue the sequence [Corner, (ch 1, 3 dc in next space) across the side]<\/strong> around the square.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
          5. Finish:<\/strong> Join with a sl st<\/strong> to the top of the ch 3. Fasten off.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
            \n\n\n\n

            Part 2: Assembly and Model Construction<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

            For all three models, use the Join-as-You-Go (JAYG)<\/strong> method (or slip stitch\/whipstitch the finished squares together).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

            1. Runner Model<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
              \n
            • Construction:<\/strong> A long, narrow rectangle (e.g., 2 motifs wide by 8\u201310 motifs long).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
            • Dimensions:<\/strong> Use a larger hook and yarn (Size 4) if you want a thicker runner.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
            • Finishing:<\/strong> Once joined, add 1-2 rounds of Single Crochet (sc)<\/strong> or Moss Stitch (sc, ch 1)<\/strong> evenly around the entire perimeter to create a clean, straight border. Block aggressively<\/strong> for a crisp, flat finish.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
              \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

              2. Blouse Model<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
                \n
              • Construction:<\/strong> Two large rectangular panels (Front and Back) joined at the shoulders and partially down the sides.\n
                  \n
                • Sizing:<\/strong> Determine the required width (Bust + Ease \/ 2) and build your panel to that width (e.g., 4 motifs wide).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                • Assembly:<\/strong>\n
                    \n
                  • Shoulders:<\/strong> Join the top edges together, leaving a Neckline Gap<\/strong> (usually 8\u201310 inches) in the center.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                  • Sides:<\/strong> Join the side edges together, starting from the bottom, leaving a sufficient Armhole Opening<\/strong> (usually 7\u20139 inches) at the top.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                  • Finishing:<\/strong> Work 1\u20132 rounds of Single Crochet (sc)<\/strong> around the neckline and armhole openings for a tidy, stable edge.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n

                    3. Tunic Model<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
                      \n
                    • Construction:<\/strong> Identical to the Blouse, but the panels are extended in length.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                    • Dimensions:<\/strong> Requires more motifs, as the length needs to extend to mid-thigh or knee (e.g., 8\u201312 rows of motifs high).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                    • Shaping:<\/strong> If you want a slight A-line flare, you can increase the size of the motifs slightly in the bottom rows, or simply size up the hook for the bottom third of the tunic panels.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
                    • Finishing:<\/strong> As with the blouse, stabilize the openings with sc<\/strong> edging.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
                      \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
                      \n\n\n\n

                      Final Step: Blocking<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

                      Blocking<\/strong> is essential, especially for the blouse and tunic. Wet the finished project, gently stretch and pin it to the correct shape (straight edges for the runner, garment shape for the blouse\/tunic), and let it dry completely. This step ensures the motif lace opens up and the fabric drapes beautifully.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

                      Would you like specific advice on selecting the right yarn size for the drape you want in the blouse?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

                      Video tutorial:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

                      \n