{"id":3752,"date":"2026-06-20T04:02:52","date_gmt":"2026-06-20T04:02:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/khflix.net\/?p=3752"},"modified":"2026-06-20T04:02:53","modified_gmt":"2026-06-20T04:02:53","slug":"%f0%9f%98%98how-to-granny-square-tutorial-step-by-step-crochet-for-beginners%f0%9f%92%96%f0%9f%98%8d","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/khflix.net\/?p=3752","title":{"rendered":"\ud83d\ude18How to\u00a0Granny Square Tutorial Step-by-Step Crochet for Beginners\ud83d\udc96\ud83d\ude0d"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

The Classic Granny Square<\/strong> is the ultimate rite of passage for every crocheter. It is beloved because it is “modular”\u2014you can make one for a coaster, or make 100 to join into a “magnificent” blanket or blouse.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Here is a foolproof, step-by-step guide to help you master your first square.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\n\n\n\n

\ud83e\uddf6 The Beginner’s Toolkit<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Before we pick up the hook, let’s make sure you have the right supplies. For beginners, I recommend using a light-colored yarn so you can see your stitches clearly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Item<\/strong><\/td>Recommendation<\/strong><\/td><\/tr><\/thead>
Yarn<\/strong><\/td>Medium-weight (Worsted\/Size 4) Acrylic or Cotton.<\/td><\/tr>
Hook<\/strong><\/td>5.0 mm (H\/8).<\/td><\/tr>
Notions<\/strong><\/td>Scissors and a large-eye tapestry needle.<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Abbreviations to Know<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
    \n
  • ch:<\/strong> Chain<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • sl st:<\/strong> Slip Stitch<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • dc:<\/strong> Double Crochet<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • sp:<\/strong> Space (the holes between stitches)<\/li>\n\n\n\n
  • Cluster:<\/strong> A group of 3 double crochets worked into the same hole.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
    \n\n\n\n

    \ud83d\udee0 Step-by-Step Instructions<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    Round 1: The Foundation<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
      \n
    1. The Center:<\/strong> Make a Magic Ring<\/strong> (or ch 4 and sl st to the first ch to form a ring).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    2. Start:<\/strong> ch 3 (this counts as your first dc).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    3. First Cluster:<\/strong> Work 2 dc into the ring. (You now have your first “3-dc cluster”).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    4. First Corner:<\/strong> ch 2.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    5. Repeat:<\/strong> [3 dc into the ring, ch 2]<\/em> three more times.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
    6. Close:<\/strong> Join with a sl st<\/strong> to the top of the starting ch 3.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
      \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
      \n

      Check your work:<\/strong> You should have 4 clusters and 4 corner holes (ch-2 spaces). It will look like a tiny, bumpy circle\/square.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n

      Round 2: Growing the Corners<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

      In this round, we only work into the corners (the holes).<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

        \n
      1. Move Hook:<\/strong> sl st into the next 2 stitches and then sl st into the first corner hole. (This “slides” your yarn to the starting point).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
      2. First Corner:<\/strong> ch 3 (counts as dc), work (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc)<\/strong> all in that same corner hole.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
      3. Transition:<\/strong> ch 1.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
      4. Next Corners:<\/strong> In each of the next 3 corner holes, work: (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc)<\/strong> followed by a ch 1<\/strong>.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
      5. Close:<\/strong> Join with a sl st<\/strong> to the top of the starting ch 3.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
        \n

        Check your work:<\/strong> You now have 8 clusters total (2 in each corner).<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n\n\n

        Round 3: The First “Side” Stitches<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

        Now we have corners AND side spaces.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

          \n
        1. Move Hook:<\/strong> sl st across to the corner hole.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
        2. Corner:<\/strong> ch 3, work (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc)<\/strong> in the corner. ch 1.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
        3. Side:<\/strong> Look at the space on the side between the corners. Work 3 dc<\/strong> into that side space. ch 1.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
        4. Repeat:<\/strong> Work a Corner<\/strong> (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in every corner hole and 3 dc<\/strong> in every side hole, always separated by a ch 1<\/strong>.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
        5. Close:<\/strong> Join with a sl st<\/strong> to the top of the starting ch 3.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
          \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
          \n\n\n\n

          \ud83d\udca1 3 Golden Rules for Beginners<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
            \n
          • The ch-1 vs. ch-2 Rule:<\/strong> Use ch 2<\/strong> for corners (it makes them sharper) and ch 1<\/strong> for sides (it keeps them straight).<\/li>\n\n\n\n
          • Don’t skip the Sl St:<\/strong> Beginners often forget to slip stitch over to the corner hole at the start of a new round. If you don’t do this, your square will look “tilted.”<\/li>\n\n\n\n
          • Relax Your Tension:<\/strong> If your square is curling up like a bowl, you are pulling too tight. Try to let the yarn flow loosely through your fingers.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n
            \n\n\n\n

            \ud83c\udfc1 Finishing Your Square<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

            When your square is as big as you want it (usually 4 or 5 rounds), cut the yarn leaving a 6-inch tail. Pull the tail through the last loop to knot it. Use your tapestry needle<\/strong> to weave the tail back and forth through the stitches on the back of the square so it doesn’t come undone.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

            \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

            Would you like me to show you how to change colors between rounds so you can make a multi-colored “rainbow” square?<\/strong>Granny Square Tutorial Step-by-Step Crochet for Beginners<\/p>\n\n\n\n

            Video tutorial:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

            \n