by Let’s make a fantastic and practical crochet tote bag! This project is perfect for beginners and a great way to create a sturdy, reusable bag for shopping, the beach, or carrying your everyday items. We’ll focus on simple stitches and clear steps to build your confidence and create a bag you’ll love.
How to Make a Crochet Tote Bag (Beginner Tutorial)
This detailed guide will walk you through crocheting a simple yet strong tote bag. You’ll learn to create a solid base, work up the sides, and add comfortable handles, all with straightforward instructions.
Skill Level: Beginner
This project is perfect if you’re comfortable with (or ready to learn!):
- Chain (ch): The foundation of crochet.
- Slip Stitch (sl st): For joining rounds.
- Single Crochet (sc): A dense and sturdy stitch, excellent for bags.
- Half Double Crochet (hdc): A slightly taller stitch that creates nice fabric.
- Working in rounds: Crocheting in a circular fashion.
- Fastening off: Securing your yarn.
- Weaving in ends: The essential finishing touch for a neat project.
Finished Tote Bag Dimensions (Approximate):
Using worsted weight yarn and the suggested hook, your finished tote bag will typically measure around:
- Base: 10 inches (25 cm) wide by 3 inches (7.5 cm) deep oval
- Height: 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) (excluding handles)
- Handles: 8-10 inches (20-25 cm) tall loop
You can easily adjust the size by changing the starting chain length for the base or the number of rounds for the body.
Materials You’ll Need:
Gathering your materials beforehand ensures a smooth and enjoyable crocheting session.
- Yarn: Approximately 400-500 yards (365-457 meters) of Worsted Weight (Medium #4) Cotton or Cotton Blend Yarn.
- Why Cotton? Cotton yarn is highly recommended for bags because it’s durable, holds its shape well, and creates a sturdy fabric. It’s less prone to stretching than acrylic when carrying items. You’ll need one main color for this simple beginner bag.
- Crochet Hook: Size H/5.0mm. This hook size works well with worsted weight cotton yarn to create a firm, dense fabric that will help your tote bag stand up on its own.
- Yarn Needle (Tapestry Needle): Essential for seamlessly weaving in your loose yarn tails. It has a blunt tip and a large eye, making it easy to thread yarn through.
- Scissors: Any sharp pair of scissors.
- Stitch Marker (Optional but Recommended): This little tool helps you keep track of the first stitch in each round, which is especially helpful when working in continuous spirals for the base.
Let’s Crochet Your Tote Bag!
We’ll build this bag from the bottom up: starting with a strong oval base, then working the body of the bag upwards, and finally adding simple, integrated handles.
Part 1: The Oval Base
You’ll start by creating a flat oval shape that forms the sturdy bottom of your tote bag. We’ll achieve this by working around a starting chain.
- Starting Chain:
- Make a slip knot with your yarn and place it onto your H/5.0mm crochet hook.
- Chain (ch) 21. (This length determines the initial width of your bag. If you want a wider or narrower bag, adjust this chain. It should be an odd number.)
- Round 1 (Working around the chain):
- Work 2 single crochet (sc) stitches into the 2nd chain from your hook.
- (Optional: Place a stitch marker in the first sc you just made. This will be the first stitch of your round for tracking.)
- Work 1 sc into each of the next 18 chains.
- In the last chain (the 21st chain from your hook): Work 4 sc into this single chain. This neatly turns the corner.
- Now, work back down the other side of your starting chain, into the bottom loops.
- Work 1 sc into each of the next 18 stitches.
- In the last stitch (the same chain where you placed your first 2 sc): Work 2 sc into this chain. This turns the other corner.
- You should now have a total of 44 sc stitches (2+18+4+18+2). Do NOT join with a slip stitch yet. For the base, you’ll work in continuous rounds (spirals) to avoid a visible seam.
- Round 2 (Continuing the Oval Shape):
- Work 2 sc into the first stitch of the round (where your stitch marker is).
- (If using, move your stitch marker to this new first sc of the round.)
- Work 1 sc into the next stitch.
- Work 1 sc into each of the next 18 stitches.
- Work 2 sc into each of the next 3 stitches.
- Work 1 sc into each of the next 18 stitches.
- Work 2 sc into each of the next 2 stitches.
- You should now have 50 sc stitches. Continue working in continuous rounds.
- Round 3 (Final Base Round):
- Work 2 sc into the first stitch of the round (where your stitch marker is).
- (If using, move your stitch marker to this new first sc of the round.)
- Work 1 sc into the next 2 stitches.
- Work 1 sc into each of the next 18 stitches.
- Work 2 sc into each of the next 3 stitches.
- Work 1 sc into each of the next 2 stitches.
- Work 1 sc into each of the next 18 stitches.
- Work 2 sc into each of the next 2 stitches.
- You should now have 56 sc stitches.
- Stop here! When you finish the last sc of this round, remove your stitch marker.
- Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc of this round to join. This flattens the end of the round and prepares for working straight up the sides of the bag.
Part 2: Building the Body of the Bag
Now, you’ll work straight up the sides of the bag using a simple single crochet stitch. You’ll work in joined rounds to maintain a neat, vertical seam.
- Round 4 (First Side Round):
- Chain 1 (ch 1 – does NOT count as a stitch).
- Work 1 single crochet (sc) into the back loop only (BLO) of each stitch around the entire round. (56 sc)
- Why BLO? Working into the back loop creates a nice, defined edge that helps the bag sides stand up straight from the base. It gives a crisp corner.
- Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc to join the round.
- Rounds 5 and Onwards (Body Height):
- Chain 1.
- Work 1 sc into both loops of each stitch around the round. (56 sc)
- Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc to join the round.
- Repeat this round (working 1 sc in each stitch around) until your bag reaches your desired height. For the approximate dimensions given, this will be about 20-25 more rounds (for a total of 24-29 rounds, including Round 4).
- The height is a personal preference. Hold it up as you go and see if you like the look!
Part 3: Creating the Handles
The handles will extend directly from the top of your bag, using the same single crochet stitch for a consistent look.
- Round for Handle Placement:
- After your last body round, chain 1 (does not count as a stitch).
- Work 8 single crochet (sc) stitches. (This positions the stitches for the first handle’s attachment point on the front of the bag).
- Chain 30 (ch 30 – this creates the length of your first handle. Adjust this number to make the handle longer or shorter for shoulder or hand carrying).
- Skip the next 12 stitches. (This creates the open space for the bag’s opening).
- Work 16 sc stitches. (This will take you across the back/front to the other side for the second handle).
- Chain 30 (ch 30 – this creates the length of your second handle).
- Skip the next 12 stitches.
- Work 8 sc stitches. (This should bring you back to the start of the round).
- Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc of this round to join.
- Round for Handle Finishing (Strengthening):
- Chain 1.
- Work 1 sc into each of the 8 sc stitches from the previous round.
- Now, work 30 sc stitches around your chain-30 handle loop. Make sure to work into the chain itself and not just the top. This reinforces the handle and makes it sturdy.
- Work 1 sc into each of the 16 sc stitches between the handles.
- Work 30 sc stitches around the second chain-30 handle loop.
- Work 1 sc into each of the remaining 8 sc stitches.
- Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc of the round to join.
- Fasten Off:
- Cut your yarn, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail.
- Yarn over with your hook, pull the cut tail completely through the loop left on your hook, and gently tug to secure the knot.
Part 4: Final Finishing Touches
- Weave in All Ends:
- This is the most crucial step for a neat and professional-looking bag. You’ll have a few tails: from your starting chain, and the final fasten-off from the handle.
- Use your yarn needle to meticulously weave in every loose yarn tail.
- How to Weave Neatly: Thread the yarn tail onto your yarn needle. Weave the tail into the stitches of your bag. Go in one direction for at least 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm). To truly secure it, subtly change direction (e.g., weave along a stitch, then turn and weave back through some of the same stitches diagonally or perpendicularly) to “lock” the tail in place and prevent it from unraveling. Trim any excess yarn close to the fabric, being careful not to cut any of your actual stitches.
- Blocking (Optional):
- Blocking can significantly improve the shape, even out any tension inconsistencies, and give your bag a more polished, professional look. It helps the bag stand up nicely.
- Method: Gently mist the bag evenly with cool water using a spray bottle until it’s damp but not soaking wet. Stuff the bag lightly with tissue paper, old t-shirts, or a small towel to help it hold its intended shape (especially the corners and handles). Allow the bag to air dry completely and thoroughly in a well-ventilated area. This might take a day or two.
- Optional: Bag Lining:
- For extra durability and to prevent small items from slipping through the stitches, consider adding a fabric lining. This is a separate sewing step. Measure the finished dimensions of your crocheted bag. Cut fabric pieces slightly larger, sew them into a matching pouch, and then hand-stitch or machine-stitch it inside your crocheted bag.
Congratulations! You’ve successfully crocheted your very own DIY Tote Bag! This project is a fantastic accomplishment for any beginner, and you now have a sturdy, handmade bag that you can use proudly.
What will you carry in your new tote first?
