🧶👜 How to Crochet a Simple Crochet Tote Bag – Beginner Tutorial

Let’s get you crocheting a simple and stylish tote bag! This tutorial is designed specifically for beginners, focusing on straightforward stitches and techniques to help you create a practical and sturdy bag you’ll be proud to use. It’s a fantastic first project for larger items, and you’ll be amazed at what you can create!

How to Crochet a Simple Tote Bag – Tutorial for Beginners!

This detailed guide will walk you through each step of crocheting a functional and durable tote bag. We’ll build it from the ground up, starting with a solid base, then creating the main body, and finally adding integrated handles.

Skill Level: Absolute Beginner Friendly!

This project is perfect if you’re ready to learn or practice:

Chain (ch): The fundamental starting stitch in almost all crochet projects.
Slip Stitch (sl st): Used for joining stitches and rounds neatly.
Single Crochet (sc): A short, dense, and very sturdy stitch that’s ideal for bags.
Half Double Crochet (hdc): A slightly taller stitch that helps the bag work up a bit faster.
Working in rounds: Crocheting in a circular motion to build height.
Fastening off: The way to secure your yarn so your hard work doesn’t unravel.
Weaving in ends: The essential final step for a clean, professional finish.

Finished Tote Bag Dimensions (Approximate):

Using worsted weight yarn and the suggested hook, your finished tote bag will typically be:

Base: 10 inches (25 cm) wide by 3 inches (7.5 cm) deep (oval shape)
Height: 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) (excluding handles)
Handles: 8-10 inches (20-25 cm) tall loop

These dimensions are easily adjustable! If you want a wider bag, start with a longer chain for the base. For a taller bag, simply add more rounds to the body.

Materials You’ll Need:

Gathering your supplies before you begin ensures a smooth and enjoyable crocheting session!

Yarn: Approximately 400-500 yards (365-457 meters) of Worsted Weight (Medium #4) Cotton or Cotton Blend Yarn.
- Why Cotton? Cotton yarn is highly recommended for bags because it’s strong, durable, and holds its shape well, even when you fill your bag with items. It’s also less likely to stretch out over time compared to pure acrylic. Choose any color you love for your bag!
Crochet Hook: Size H/5.0mm. This hook size is a great match for worsted weight yarn, helping you create a dense, firm fabric that will allow your tote bag to stand up nicely on its own.
Yarn Needle (Tapestry Needle): This specialized needle has a blunt tip and a large eye, making it easy to thread yarn through. It’s essential for seamlessly weaving in all your loose yarn tails at the end of the project.
Scissors: Any sharp pair for cutting your yarn.
Stitch Marker (Optional but Recommended): This small plastic or metal clip is incredibly helpful for marking the first stitch of each round, especially when you’re working the base in a continuous spiral. It prevents you from losing your place!

Let’s Crochet Your Simple Tote Bag!

We’ll build this bag from the bottom up in three main stages: creating a strong oval base, building the main body of the bag upwards, and finally adding sturdy, integrated handles.

Part 1: The Oval Base

You’ll begin by creating a flat, sturdy oval shape that forms the bottom of your tote bag. This is achieved by working single crochet stitches around a starting chain, which helps prevent a visible seam.

Starting Chain:
- Make a slip knot with your yarn and place it onto your H/5.0mm crochet hook.
- Chain (ch) 21. (This chain length determines the initial length/width of your bag’s base. If you want a longer base, chain more stitches; for a shorter base, chain fewer. An odd number of chains works well for this pattern.)
Round 1 (Working Around the Chain):
- Work 2 single crochet (sc) stitches into the 2nd chain from your hook.
  - To make an sc: Insert your hook into the designated chain, yarn over, pull up a loop (you’ll have 2 loops on your hook), yarn over, pull through both loops on your hook.
- (Optional: Place your stitch marker in the first sc you just made. This will be the first stitch of your round for easy tracking.)
- Work 1 sc into each of the next 18 chains.
- In the last chain (which is the 21st chain from your hook): Work 4 sc stitches into this single chain. This helps you smoothly turn the corner around the end of your chain.
- Now, you’ll work back down the other side of your starting chain. Crochet into the bottom loops (the unworked loops) of each chain.
- Work 1 sc into each of the next 18 stitches.
- In the last stitch (this will be the same chain where you placed your very first 2 sc): Work 2 sc stitches into this chain. This finishes turning the other corner and brings you back to where you started the round.
- You should now have a total of 44 sc stitches (2 + 18 + 4 + 18 + 2 = 44). Important: Do NOT join with a slip stitch yet. For the base, you’ll work in continuous rounds (like a spiral) to avoid a visible seam and create a sturdier foundation.
Round 2 (Continuing the Oval Shape):
- Work 2 sc into the very first stitch of the round (this is the stitch marked by your stitch marker).
- (If using, move your stitch marker to this new first sc of the round.)
- Work 1 sc into the next stitch.
- Work 1 sc into each of the next 18 stitches.
- Work 2 sc into each of the next 3 stitches. (These are the increases on one of the rounded ends).
- Work 1 sc into each of the next 18 stitches.
- Work 2 sc into each of the next 2 stitches. (These are the increases on the other rounded end).
- You should now have 50 sc stitches. Continue working in continuous rounds.
Round 3 (Final Base Round):
- Work 2 sc into the first stitch of the round (where your stitch marker is).
- (If using, move your stitch marker to this new first sc of the round.)
- Work 1 sc into the next 2 stitches.
- Work 1 sc into each of the next 18 stitches.
- Work 2 sc into each of the next 3 stitches.
- Work 1 sc into each of the next 2 stitches.
- Work 1 sc into each of the next 18 stitches.
- Work 2 sc into each of the next 2 stitches.
- You should now have 56 sc stitches.
- Stop here! When you finish the last sc of this round, remove your stitch marker.
- Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc of this round to join. This completes your oval base neatly and prepares you for working straight up the sides of the bag.

Part 2: Building the Body of the Bag

Now, you’ll work straight up from the finished base to create the main walls of your tote bag. We’ll use a single crochet for the first body round to define a crisp edge, then half double crochet for the rest of the body to make it work up a bit faster. You’ll work in joined rounds to keep a neat, vertical seam.

Round 4 (First Side Round – Defining the Edge):
- Chain 1 (ch 1 – this does NOT count as a stitch; it just gives height).
- Work 1 single crochet (sc) into the back loop only (BLO) of each stitch around the entire round. (56 sc)
  - Why BLO? Working into the back loop creates a distinct, visible ridge on the outside of the bag. This ridge helps the bag’s sides stand up straight from the base, giving it a crisp, defined corner, rather than a rounded bottom.
- Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc to join the round.
Rounds 5 and Onwards (Body Height – using Half Double Crochet):
- Chain 2 (ch 2 – this counts as your first half double crochet (hdc) of the round).
  - To make an hdc: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
- Work 1 hdc into each stitch around the round. (56 hdc)
- Slip stitch (sl st) into the top of the beginning ch 2 (the second chain of your starting chain-2) to join the round.
- Repeat this round (working 1 hdc in each stitch around) until your bag reaches your desired height. For the approximate dimensions given, you’ll want to do about 18-22 more rounds (for a total of 22-26 rounds for the body, including Round 4).
- The height is entirely a personal preference. Hold it up as you go and see if you like the look and feel. The hdc stitch works up faster than sc, which is great for building the main body of the bag!

Part 3: Creating the Handles

Now you’ll create sturdy, integrated handles that extend directly from the top of your bag. We’ll use simple single crochet stitches for consistency and strength.

Handle Placement Round (Setting up the openings):
- After your last body round, make sure you’ve joined with a slip stitch.
- Chain 1 (ch 1 – this does not count as a stitch).
- Work 12 single crochet (sc) stitches. (This section creates the part of the bag opening before your first handle).
- Chain 40 (ch 40 – this creates the length of your first handle. You can easily adjust this number to make the handle longer for a shoulder bag or shorter for a hand-carry bag. More chains = longer handle).
- Skip the next 10 stitches on the bag’s top edge (this creates the open space for the bag’s main opening, where your arm will go).
- Work 22 sc stitches. (This section bridges the gap across the top of the bag between your two handles).
- Chain 40 (ch 40 – this creates the length of your second handle, matching the first).
- Skip the next 10 stitches.
- Work 12 sc stitches. (This should bring you back to the start of the round, creating the other part of the bag opening).
- Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc of this round to join.
Handle Strengthening Rounds (Make them sturdy!):
- Chain 1.
- Work 1 sc into each sc stitch along the top edge of the bag (these are the 12 sc, 22 sc, and 12 sc sections).
- When you reach a chain-handle loop, you’ll work single crochets directly into each chain of the loop. Work 1 sc into each of the 40 chains of the loop. This creates a very sturdy and thick handle.
- Continue working sc stitches into the bag top and then around the second chain-40 handle loop (40 sc into those chains).
- Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc of the round to join.
- Repeat this entire round (starting with ch 1, then sc all around the bag top and into the previous round’s handle stitches) one or two more times (for a total of 2 or 3 handle strengthening rounds). This makes the handles even stronger, more comfortable, and less likely to stretch with use.
Fasten Off:
- After completing your final handle strengthening round and joining with a slip stitch, cut your yarn, leaving a tail of about 6 inches (15 cm).
- Yarn over with your hook, pull the cut tail completely through the loop left on your hook, and gently tug to secure the knot.

Part 4: Final Finishing Touches (The Secret to a Professional Look!)

This stage is crucial for making your tote bag look professional, clean, and durable.

Weave in All Ends (Meticulously!):
- You’ll have at least two yarn tails: one from your starting chain on the base and one from where you fastened off at the handles.
- Thread one of your yarn tails onto your yarn needle.
- How to Weave Neatly: Insert the needle into the stitches on the inside of your bag. Weave the tail into existing stitches for at least 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm). To make it extra secure and prevent unraveling, subtly change direction (e.g., weave along a stitch, then turn and weave back through some of the same stitches diagonally or perpendicularly) to “lock” the tail in place. Once secured, trim any excess yarn close to the fabric, being careful not to cut any of your actual crocheted stitches.
- Repeat this process for all remaining yarn tails. Taking your time here makes a huge difference in the final appearance and longevity of your bag.
Blocking (Optional but Highly Recommended):
- Blocking is a simple process that can significantly improve the shape of your bag, even out any minor tension inconsistencies, and give it a more polished, professional appearance. It helps the bag stand up nicely on its own.
- Method for Cotton Yarn:
  - Gently mist the entire bag evenly with cool water using a spray bottle until it’s damp, but not soaking wet.
  - Stuff the bag lightly with clean towels, old t-shirts, or even plastic bags to help it hold its intended shape (paying attention to the corners and the handles).
  - Allow the bag to air dry completely and thoroughly in a well-ventilated area. This might take a day or two, depending on humidity. Do not move or use the bag until it’s bone dry.
Optional: Add a Fabric Lining:
- For extra durability, to prevent small items from slipping through stitches (especially if your tension is looser), and to add a pop of contrasting color, consider adding a fabric lining. This involves basic sewing skills. Measure the finished interior dimensions of your crocheted bag. Cut fabric pieces slightly larger, sew them into a matching pouch, and then hand-stitch or machine-stitch it neatly inside your crocheted bag.

Congratulations! You’ve successfully crocheted your very own Simple Tote Bag! This is a fantastic accomplishment for any beginner, and you now have a sturdy, handmade bag that’s both functional and stylish.

What’s the first adventure you’ll take your new handmade tote bag on?

🧶👜 How to Crochet a Simple Crochet Tote Bag – Beginner Tutorial