by What an awesome idea! Crocheting a tote bag from yarn scraps is not only incredibly eco-friendly, but it also creates a unique, vibrant, and incredibly personal accessory. Plus, it’s a fantastic way to use up all those leftover bits and bobs from previous projects. This “very easy” tote bag design will focus on simplicity, making it perfect for beginners and a satisfying quick project for more experienced crocheters.
Amazing Idea from Yarn Scraps: Very Easy Crochet Tote Bag!
This tutorial will guide you through creating a charming and practical tote bag using various yarn scraps. We’ll focus on a simple, sturdy design that comes together quickly and beautifully highlights your collection of colors.
Why Use Yarn Scraps?
- Eco-Friendly: Reduces waste by repurposing leftover yarn.
- Economical: No need to buy new skeins; use what you have!
- Unique Design: Every bag will be one-of-a-kind with its mix of colors and textures.
- Skill Building: Great for practicing color changes and managing multiple yarn ends.
Skill Level: Beginner
This project is super accessible if you’re comfortable with:
- Chain (ch): The basic foundation.
- Slip Stitch (sl st): For joining and neat finishes.
- Single Crochet (sc): A tight, sturdy stitch that holds its shape well.
- Working in rounds: Crocheting in a circular motion.
- Fastening off: Securing your yarn.
- Weaving in ends: The essential finishing touch (and you’ll get plenty of practice!).
- Color Changes: We’ll be doing a lot of these!
Finished Tote Bag Dimensions (Approximate):
Using worsted weight yarn scraps and the suggested hook, your bag will be approximately:
- Base: 9-10 inches (23-25 cm) wide x 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm) deep oval
- Height: 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) (excluding handles)
- Handles: 8-10 inches (20-25 cm) tall loop
These dimensions are easily customizable. Want a bigger bag? Start with a longer chain for the base and add more body rounds!
Materials You’ll Need:
Gather your colorful stash and tools!
- Yarn Scraps: A collection of Worsted Weight (Medium #4) yarn scraps in various colors, textures (though consistent weight is best), and fiber types (cotton, acrylic, blends work well together).
- Tip for Scraps: Try to have at least a few yards of each color you want to incorporate. For the main body, aim for 300-400 yards total. For the base and handles, a more consistent color or thicker scraps can add extra durability.
- Crochet Hook: Size H/5.0mm. This size works well for worsted weight yarn, creating a fabric that’s dense enough for a sturdy bag.
- Yarn Needle (Tapestry Needle): Essential for weaving in the inevitable pile of ends. A blunt tip and large eye are ideal.
- Scissors: For cutting yarn and trimming ends.
- Stitch Marker (Optional but Recommended): Very helpful for marking the beginning of rounds, especially when changing colors frequently.
Let’s Crochet Your Scrappy Tote Bag!
We’ll build this bag from the bottom up: a solid oval base, a simple single crochet body, and integrated handles. The “easy” part comes from using a single, consistent stitch (single crochet) for most of the bag, making it quick to pick up and put down.
Part 1: The Sturdy Oval Base
A strong, flat base is key for a functional tote bag. We’ll create an oval by working single crochet stitches around a starting chain.
- Choose Your Base Color(s): Pick one or two sturdy colors for the base. This will be the workhorse of your bag.
- Starting Chain:
- Make a slip knot and place it on your H/5.0mm hook.
- Chain (ch) 26. (This length determines the initial width of your bag. For a wider bag, chain more; for a narrower one, chain less. A good rule of thumb is an odd number for easy pattern following, but it’s flexible.)
- Round 1 (Working Around the Chain):
- Work 2 single crochet (sc) stitches into the 2nd chain from your hook.
- (Optional: Place your stitch marker in the first sc you just made. This marks the beginning of your round.)
- Work 1 sc into each of the next 23 chains.
- In the last chain (the 26th chain from your hook): Work 4 sc into this single chain. This creates a neat turn around the end.
- Now, work back down the other side of your starting chain, crocheting into the bottom loops (the unworked loops) of each chain.
- Work 1 sc into each of the next 23 stitches.
- In the last stitch (the same chain where you placed your very first 2 sc): Work 2 sc into this chain. This finishes turning the other corner.
- You should now have a total of 54 sc stitches (2 + 23 + 4 + 23 + 2 = 54). Do NOT join with a slip stitch yet. For the base, you’ll work in continuous rounds (spirals) to avoid a visible seam.
- Round 2 (Continuing the Oval Shape):
- Work 2 sc into the first stitch of the round (the one with your stitch marker).
- (If using, move your stitch marker to this new first sc of the round.)
- Work 1 sc into the next 24 stitches.
- Work 2 sc into each of the next 3 stitches.
- Work 1 sc into the next 24 stitches.
- Work 2 sc into each of the next 2 stitches.
- You should now have 60 sc stitches. Continue working in continuous rounds.
- Round 3 (Final Base Round):
- Work 2 sc into the first stitch of the round (where your stitch marker is).
- (If using, move your stitch marker to this new first sc of the round.)
- Work 1 sc into the next 25 stitches.
- Work 2 sc into each of the next 3 stitches.
- Work 1 sc into the next 25 stitches.
- Work 2 sc into each of the next 2 stitches.
- You should now have 66 sc stitches.
- Stop here! When you finish the last sc of this round, remove your stitch marker.
- Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc of this round to join. This completes your oval base neatly and prepares you for working straight up the sides of the bag.
Part 2: Building the Scrappy Body of the Bag
Now for the fun part: adding all those gorgeous colors! We’ll work the sides using a simple single crochet stitch in joined rounds.
- Round 4 (First Side Round – Defining the Edge):
- Change Color! You can either cut your base yarn and join a new color with a slip stitch, or simply carry the new color up from underneath if you plan to alternate.
- Chain 1 (ch 1 – this does NOT count as a stitch).
- Work 1 single crochet (sc) into the back loop only (BLO) of each stitch around the entire round. (66 sc)
- Why BLO? Working into the back loop creates a distinct, visible ridge that helps the bag’s sides stand up straight from the base, giving it a crisp, defined corner.
- Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc to join the round.
- Rounds 5 and Onwards (Scrappy Body Height):
- Chain 1 (ch 1 – does NOT count as a stitch).
- Work 1 sc into both loops of each stitch around the round. (66 sc)
- Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc to join the round.
- Repeat this round until your bag reaches your desired height. This will likely be 20-25 more rounds, depending on how tall you want your tote.
- Color Changes: This is where your scraps shine! Change colors whenever you like.
- How to Change Colors Mid-Round (or at the end): When you’re making the last yarn over of your final stitch in the old color, drop the old color and pick up the new color. Yarn over with the new color and pull through the remaining loops on your hook to complete the stitch. Then proceed with the next stitch in the new color.
- When to Change: You can change colors every round, every two rounds, or even mid-round for stripes or color blocking! There are no rules here—let your creativity flow.
- Managing Ends: Don’t worry about weaving in every single end immediately. For small scrap pieces, you can try crocheting over the tails for a few stitches to secure them, then trim. We’ll do a big weave-in session at the end.
Part 3: Creating the Handles
For this easy tote, we’ll create simple, integrated handles directly from the top edge of the bag. Using a sturdier, possibly doubled-up, yarn for the handles can add comfort and durability.
- Handle Placement Round (Using a consistent, sturdy color – potentially your base color):
- After your last body round, make sure you’ve joined and changed to your handle color.
- Chain 1 (ch 1 – does not count as a stitch).
- Work 12 single crochet (sc) stitches. (This section creates the space before your first handle).
- Chain 40 (ch 40 – this creates the length of your first handle. Adjust this number for a longer shoulder strap or a shorter hand-carry handle).
- Skip the next 10 stitches on the bag’s top edge (this creates the armhole opening).
- Work 22 sc stitches. (This section bridges the gap between your two handles).
- Chain 40 (ch 40 – this creates the length of your second handle, matching the first).
- Skip the next 10 stitches.
- Work 12 sc stitches. (This should bring you back to the start of the round).
- Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc of this round to join.
- Handle Strengthening Rounds (2-3 rounds recommended for durability):
- Chain 1.
- Work 1 sc into each sc stitch along the top edge of the bag.
- When you reach a chain-handle loop, work 1 sc into each chain of the loop. (e.g., 40 sc around the chain). This creates a very sturdy and thick handle.
- Continue working sc stitches into the bag top and around the second handle.
- Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc to join.
- Repeat this round one or two more times to make the handles even stronger and more comfortable. For an extra sturdy handle, you could even make the handle chains with two strands of yarn held together.
- Fasten Off:
- Cut your yarn, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail.
- Yarn over with your hook, pull the cut tail completely through the loop left on your hook, and gently tug to secure the knot.
Part 4: Final Finishing Touches (The Weaving Marathon!)
This is the part where your beautiful scrap bag truly comes to life, clean and ready for action.
- Weave in ALL Remaining Ends:
- Be prepared for a “weaving party”! With all the color changes, you’ll have numerous yarn tails from where you started, ended, and switched colors.
- Use your yarn needle to meticulously weave in every single loose yarn tail.
- How to Weave Neatly: Thread the yarn tail onto your yarn needle. Weave the tail into stitches of the same color on the inside of your bag. Go in one direction for at least 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm), trying to follow the path of existing stitches to make it invisible. To truly secure it, subtly change direction and weave back through a few stitches in a different direction (e.g., diagonally or perpendicularly) to “lock” the tail in place and prevent it from unraveling over time. Once secured, trim any excess yarn close to the fabric, being careful not to cut any of your actual stitches.
- Taking your time on this step makes a huge difference in the final appearance and longevity of your bag.
- Blocking (Optional but Recommended):
- Blocking can help your bag sit evenly, make the stitches look more uniform, and define the shape.
- Method: Gently mist the entire bag evenly with cool water using a spray bottle until it’s damp, but not soaking wet. Stuff the bag lightly with tissue paper, old t-shirts, or a small towel to help it hold its intended shape (especially the corners and handles). Allow the bag to air dry completely and thoroughly in a well-ventilated area. This might take a day or two.
- Optional: Add a Fabric Lining:
- For extra durability, to prevent stretching, and to keep small items from slipping through stitches, consider adding a fabric lining. This requires basic sewing skills. Measure the finished dimensions of your crocheted bag. Cut fabric pieces slightly larger, sew them into a matching pouch, and then hand-stitch or machine-stitch it neatly inside your crocheted bag.
Congratulations! You’ve successfully crocheted an amazing, unique, and very easy Scrap Yarn Tote Bag! You’ve transformed leftover bits into a functional work of art.
What will be the first treasure you carry in your new, one-of-a-kind creation?
