🧶 How to Crochet a Popcorn Stitch Tote Bag (Beginner-Friendly & Detailed)

The popcorn stitch adds a wonderfully tactile and three-dimensional texture to crochet projects, making it perfect for a stylish and unique tote bag. Despite its intricate appearance, the popcorn stitch itself is quite straightforward, and combining it with a simple tote bag construction makes for an achievable project even for confident beginners. This detailed tutorial will guide you through creating a sturdy base, the textured body with popcorn stitches, and comfortable handles.

Skill Level: Intermediate Beginner

This project is fantastic if you’re comfortable with basic stitches and ready to learn a special stitch. You’ll practice:

• Chain (ch): The foundation of most crochet projects.
• Slip Stitch (sl st): For joining stitches neatly.
• Single Crochet (sc): A dense, sturdy stitch (used for the base and sometimes between popcorns).
• Double Crochet (dc): A taller stitch (the foundation for the popcorn stitch).
• Popcorn Stitch (PC): The star of the show!
• Working in Rounds: Crocheting in continuous or joined circles.
• Increasing: Making your work wider for the base.
• Fastening Off: Securely ending your yarn.
• Weaving in Ends: The essential final step for a polished and durable bag.

Finished Tote Bag Dimensions (Approximate):

Using worsted weight yarn (Medium #4) and the suggested hook, your finished tote bag will typically be:

• Base: 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) long by 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm) wide (oval shape).
• Height: 10-12 inches (25-30 cm) (excluding handles).
• Handles: 15-20 inches (38-50 cm) tall loop (from bag edge to top of handle, for shoulder carry).

These dimensions are easily adjustable! Want a larger bag? Start with a longer chain for the base and add more body rounds. For a smaller bag, do the opposite.

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Materials You’ll Need:

Gathering your supplies beforehand ensures a smooth and enjoyable crocheting session!

• Yarn: Approximately 500-700 yards (450-640 meters) of Worsted Weight (Medium #4) Cotton or Cotton Blend Yarn.
  • Why Cotton? Cotton is highly recommended for bags because it’s strong, durable, holds its shape well, and has minimal stretch. This is crucial for a bag that will hold items. A cotton blend with a bit of acrylic can offer a good balance of softness and structure. Choose any color you love – solid colors really let the popcorn stitch shine!
• Crochet Hook: Size H/5.0mm or I/5.5mm. A slightly smaller hook (like 5.0mm) will create a denser fabric, which is great for bag structure. A 5.5mm might be easier to work with the popcorn stitch. Choose based on your personal tension.
• Yarn Needle (Tapestry Needle): Essential for weaving in all your loose yarn tails.
• Scissors: Any sharp pair for cutting your yarn.
• Stitch Marker (Optional but Recommended): Very helpful for marking the first stitch of each round, especially when working the base in continuous rounds.

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Understanding the Popcorn Stitch (PC)

Before we start the bag, let’s break down the popcorn stitch. It’s simply a cluster of double crochet stitches that are then joined together to “pop” out from your work.

How to make a Popcorn Stitch (PC):

1. Work 5 double crochet (dc) stitches into the same stitch or space.
2. Remove your hook from the loop on your hook.
3. Insert your hook into the first dc of the 5-dc cluster (the very first dc you made).
4. Reinsert your hook into the loop you just removed.
5. Yarn over and pull that loop through the first dc.
6. Chain 1 (ch 1) to secure the popcorn (this chain usually does not count as a stitch, but check specific patterns if you’re adapting).

[Image: A sequence of photos showing steps of making a popcorn stitch: 1) 5 dc in one stitch, 2) hook removed, 3) hook in first dc, 4) loop re-inserted, 5) loop pulled through, 6) ch 1 to secure.]

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Let’s Crochet Your Popcorn Stitch Tote Bag!

We’ll construct this tote bag from the bottom up: an oval base, then the main body featuring the popcorn stitch pattern, and finally, integrated handles.

Part 1: The Oval Base (Single Crochet)

A sturdy, flat oval base is essential for a tote bag. We’ll create this by working single crochet stitches around a starting chain in continuous rounds.

1. Foundation Chain:
   • Make a slip knot with your yarn.
   • Chain (ch) 36. (This length determines the initial length/width of your bag’s base. For a wider bag, chain more; for a narrower one, chain less. A longer starting chain will result in a wider but shallower bag, and vice versa.)
2. Round 1 (Working Around the Chain):
   • Work 2 single crochet (sc) stitches into the 2nd chain from your hook.
   • Optional: Place your stitch marker in the first sc you just made to mark the beginning of the round.
   • Work 1 sc into each of the next 33 chains.
   • In the last chain (the 36th chain from your hook): Work 4 sc stitches into this single chain. This creates the turn around one end of your oval.
   • Now, you’ll work back down the other side of your starting chain, crocheting into the bottom loops (the unworked loops) of each chain.
   • Work 1 sc into each of the next 33 stitches.
   • In the last chain (which is the same chain where you placed your very first 2 sc): Work 2 sc stitches into this chain. This completes the turn around the other end.
   • You should now have a total of 74 sc stitches (2 + 33 + 4 + 33 + 2 = 74). Important: Do NOT join with a slip stitch yet. We’ll work the base in continuous rounds (like a spiral) to avoid a visible seam.
3. Round 2 (Continuing the Oval Shape):
   • Work 2 sc into the very first stitch of the round (the one with your stitch marker).
   • Move your stitch marker to this new first sc of the round.
   • Work 1 sc into the next stitch.
   • Work 1 sc into each of the next 33 stitches.
   • Work 2 sc into each of the next 3 stitches. (These are the increases on one curved end).
   • Work 1 sc into the next stitch.
   • Work 1 sc into each of the next 33 stitches.
   • Work 2 sc into each of the next 2 stitches. (These are the increases on the other curved end).
   • You should now have 80 sc stitches. Continue in continuous rounds.
4. Round 3 (Final Base Round):
   • Work 2 sc into the first stitch of the round (where your stitch marker is).
   • Move your stitch marker to this new first sc of the round.
   • Work 1 sc into the next 2 stitches.
   • Work 1 sc into each of the next 33 stitches.
   • Work 2 sc into each of the next 3 stitches.
   • Work 1 sc into the next 2 stitches.
   • Work 1 sc into each of the next 33 stitches.
   • Work 2 sc into each of the next 2 stitches.
   • You should now have 86 sc stitches.
   • Stop here! When you finish the last sc of this round, remove your stitch marker.
   • Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc of this round to join. This completes your oval base neatly and prepares you for working straight up the sides of the bag.

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Part 2: Building the Body of the Handbag with Popcorn Stitches

Now, we’ll establish the bag’s vertical sides and introduce the beautiful popcorn stitch texture. We’ll work in joined rounds for cleaner edges and easier pattern repetition.

1. Round 4 (First Side Round – Defining the Edge):
   • Chain 1 (ch 1 – this does NOT count as a stitch; it just gives height).
   • Work 1 single crochet (sc) into the back loop only (BLO) of each stitch around the entire round. (86 sc)
     • Why BLO? Working into the back loop creates a distinct, visible ridge on the outside of the bag. This ridge helps the bag’s sides stand up straight from the base, giving it a crisp, defined bottom, rather than a rounded one.
   • Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc of the round to join.
2. Round 5 (Popcorn Stitch Setup Round):
   • Chain 1 (ch 1 – does NOT count as a stitch).
   • Work 1 sc in the first stitch.
   • Work 1 dc in the next stitch.
   • *Work 1 sc in the next stitch. Work 1 dc in the next stitch.*
   • Repeat from * to * around the entire round.
   • Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round. (86 stitches total: 43 sc, 43 dc)
   • Note: This row sets up the alternating sc/dc pattern. The popcorns will be worked into the dc stitches of previous rows.
3. Round 6 (Popcorn Stitch Row):
   • Chain 1 (ch 1 – does NOT count as a stitch).
   • Work 1 sc into the first sc stitch.
   • Work 1 Popcorn Stitch (PC) into the top of the next dc stitch. (Remember: 5 dc in stitch, remove hook, insert into 1st dc, reinsert loop, pull through, ch 1 to secure).
   • *Work 1 sc into the top of the next sc stitch.
   • Work 1 Popcorn Stitch (PC) into the top of the next dc stitch.*
   • Repeat from * to * around the entire round. You should have 43 popcorn stitches and 43 single crochet stitches.
   • Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round.
   • Self-Correction Tip: The popcorns will pop out towards you if you work them on the “right side” of your fabric. If they’re popping inward, you might be twisting your work or working from the wrong side; simply flip your bag inside out before starting this round to ensure the popcorns face outwards.
4. Round 7 (Connecting Row):
   • Chain 1 (ch 1 – does NOT count as a stitch).
   • Work 1 sc into the top of the first sc stitch.
   • Work 1 sc into the top of the Popcorn Stitch (work into the ch-1 that secured the popcorn, or into the top of the actual bobble if it’s easier).
   • *Work 1 sc into the top of the next sc stitch.
   • Work 1 sc into the top of the next Popcorn Stitch.*
   • Repeat from * to * around the entire round.
   • Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round. (86 sc)
   • Note: This round lays flat and prepares for the next popcorn row.
5. Continuing the Pattern (Body Height):
   • Repeat Rounds 5, 6, and 7 until your bag reaches your desired height. For the approximate dimensions given, you’ll want to repeat these three rounds approximately 5-7 more times (which means you’ll have 5-7 rows of popcorns).
   • Always end on a Round 7 (a single crochet connecting round) for a neat top edge before starting the handles.

Part 3: Creating the Handles

We’ll create sturdy, integrated handles that extend directly from the top of your bag, continuing the single crochet pattern for a neat finish.

1. Handle Placement Round (Setting up the openings):
   • After completing your last Round 7 and joining with a slip stitch:
   • Chain 1 (ch 1 – does NOT count as a stitch).
   • Work 1 sc into the first 15 stitches. (This creates the front section of the bag opening).
   • Chain 45 (ch 45 – this creates the length of your first handle. Adjust this number for a longer shoulder strap or a shorter hand-carry handle. More chains = longer handle).
   • Skip the next 13 stitches on the bag’s top edge (this creates the open space for the bag’s main opening).
   • Work 1 sc into the next 30 stitches. (This section bridges the gap across the top of the bag between your two handles).
   • Chain 45 (ch 45 – this creates the length of your second handle, matching the first).
   • Skip the next 13 stitches.
   • Work 1 sc into the next 15 stitches. (This should bring you back to the start of the round, completing the other front section).
   • Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc of the round to join.
2. Handle Strengthening Rounds (Make them sturdy!):
   • Chain 1 (ch 1 – does NOT count as a stitch).
   • Work 1 sc into each sc stitch along the top edge of the bag (these are the 15 sc, 30 sc, and 15 sc sections).
   • When you reach a chain-handle loop, you’ll work single crochets directly into each chain of the loop. Work 1 sc into each of the 45 chains of the loop. This creates a very sturdy and comfortable handle.
   • Continue working sc stitches into the bag top and then around the second chain-45 handle loop (45 sc into those chains).
   • Slip stitch (sl st) into the first sc of the round to join.
   • Repeat this entire round (starting with ch 1, then sc all around the bag top and into the previous round’s handle stitches) one or two more times (for a total of 2 or 3 handle strengthening rounds). This makes the handles even stronger, more comfortable, and less likely to stretch with use.
3. Final Edge Round (Optional, for a cleaner finish):
   • Chain 1.
   • Work 1 sl st into each stitch around the entire top edge of the bag, including the handles. This creates a very neat, non-stretchy top edge.
   • Join with a sl st to the first sl st.
4. Fasten Off:
   • After completing your final handle strengthening or edge round and joining with a slip stitch, cut your yarn, leaving a tail of about 6 inches (15 cm).
   • Yarn over with your hook, pull the cut tail completely through the loop left on your hook, and gently tug to secure the knot.

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Part 4: Final Finishing Touches (The Secret to a Professional Look!)

This stage is crucial for making your handbag look polished, clean, and durable. Don’t skip these steps!

1. Weave in All Ends (Meticulously!):
   • You’ll have a few yarn tails: one from your starting chain on the base, and one from where you fastened off at the handles.
   • Thread each yarn tail onto your yarn needle.
   • How to Weave Neatly: Insert the needle into existing stitches on the inside of your bag. Weave the tail through the stitches for at least 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm). Try to follow the path of existing stitches to make it invisible. To make it extra secure and prevent unraveling, subtly change direction within the stitches (e.g., weave along a stitch, then turn and weave back through some of the same stitches diagonally or perpendicularly) to “lock” the tail in place.
   • Once secured, trim any excess yarn very close to the fabric, being careful not to snip any of your actual crocheted stitches.
2. Blocking (Optional but Highly Recommended):
   • Blocking is a simple process that can significantly improve the shape of your bag, even out any minor tension inconsistencies, and give it a more professional appearance. It helps the bag stand up nicely on its own and defines the popcorn stitches.
   • Method for Cotton Yarn (Wet Blocking):
     • Gently mist the entire bag evenly with cool water using a spray bottle until it’s damp, but not soaking wet.
     • Stuff the bag lightly with clean towels, old t-shirts, or even plastic bags to help it hold its intended shape (paying attention to the corners and ensuring the base lies flat, and handles are shaped).
     • Allow the bag to air dry completely and thoroughly in a well-ventilated area. This might take a day or two, depending on humidity. Do not move or use the bag until it’s bone dry.
3. Optional Enhancements:
   • Fabric Lining: For extra durability and to prevent small items from slipping through stitches, consider adding a fabric lining. This involves basic sewing skills.
   • Magnetic Snap or Button: Sew a magnetic snap closure or a large decorative button and loop to the top opening of the bag for added security.

Congratulations! You’ve successfully crocheted your very own beautiful and unique Popcorn Stitch Pattern Tote Bag! This is a fantastic accomplishment, showcasing a lovely textured stitch. You now have a sturdy, handmade accessory that’s both functional and stylish.

What will you fill your new popcorn tote bag with first?

Video Tutorial