by let’s create a stunning crochet tote bag featuring a beautiful large rose flower! This project combines a practical and sturdy bag with an elegant, dimensional floral embellishment. The large rose will be crocheted separately and then securely attached to the finished bag, making it a true statement piece.
How to Make a Crochet Tote Bag with a Large Rose Flower
This tutorial guides you through crocheting the tote bag and then creating and attaching a prominent rose flower.
Skill Level: Intermediate
You’ll want to be comfortable with:
- Basic crochet stitches: chain, slip stitch, single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet.
- Working in joined rounds for the bag.
- Creating a flat oval base for the bag.
- Working straight sides.
- Creating dimensional flower petals (this involves shaping and layering stitches).
- Basic seaming/attachment techniques with a yarn needle.
Finished Dimensions (Approximate):
- Tote Bag: 12 inches (30.5 cm) wide x 14 inches (35.5 cm) high (excluding handles).
- Large Rose Flower: 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) in diameter, depending on your tension and yarn.
Materials You’ll Need:
- Yarn:
- For the Tote Bag: Approximately 500-700 yards (450-640 meters) of Worsted Weight (Medium #4) Cotton or Cotton Blend Yarn. Cotton is highly recommended for bags due to its durability, sturdiness, and washability. Choose a solid color for the bag that will complement your rose.
- For the Large Rose Flower: Approximately 100-150 yards (90-135 meters) of Worsted Weight (Medium #4) Cotton or Cotton Blend Yarn.
- Rose Petal Color: Your chosen color for the rose (e.g., red, pink, cream, white).
- Rose Leaf/Stem Color (optional): A small amount of green yarn.
- Crochet Hook:
- Size H/5.0mm: Or the hook size that gives you a firm, dense fabric for the bag and well-defined stitches for the flower.
- Yarn Needle (Tapestry Needle): Essential for weaving in ends and securely attaching the rose.
- Scissors
- Stitch Markers (Recommended): Helpful for marking the beginning of rounds and the corners of your bag base.
Gauge (Crucial for Consistent Size!):
Maintaining a consistent gauge is vital for your tote bag to achieve the intended size and shape.
- For the main bag body (single crochet stitches): 15 single crochet stitches and 16 rows = 4 inches (10 cm).
- Adjust your hook size if necessary to meet this gauge.
Abbreviations Used:
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- hdc: half double crochet
- dc: double crochet
- tr: treble crochet (or triple crochet)
- st(s): stitch(es)
- inc: increase (work 2 stitches into the same stitch)
- BLO: back loop only
- FO: fasten off
- (): repeat instructions within parentheses a specified number of times.
- []: indicates the total number of stitches at the end of a round.
- MR: Magic Ring (or Magic Circle/Adjustable Ring)
Part 1: Crocheting the Tote Bag
We’ll start with the bag’s main structure. This will be a classic, sturdy tote.
1A. Base of the Tote
Begin by creating a sturdy, flat oval base for your bag.
- Chain 37.
- Round 1: Sc in the 2nd chain from your hook. Sc in the next 34 chains. Work 3 sc in the very last chain. (Now working down the other side of your starting chain). Sc in the next 34 chains. Work 2 sc in the very last chain (this is the same chain as your first sc of the round). Sl st to the first sc to join. [74 stitches]
- Tip: Place stitch markers in the middle stitch of the 3-sc group at each end of the oval. These will be your “corner” stitches where you’ll make increases in subsequent rounds to maintain the oval shape.
- Round 2: Ch 1 (does NOT count as a stitch). Sc in the same stitch as your join. Sc in the next 33 stitches. Work 3 sc in the marked stitch (your old corner). Sc in the next 34 stitches. Work 3 sc in the marked stitch (your other old corner). Sc in the last 2 stitches. Sl st to the first sc to join. [78 stitches]
- Remember to move your stitch markers to the middle stitch of each new 3-sc group.
- Round 3: Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch. Sc in the next 34 stitches. Work 3 sc in the marked stitch. Sc in the next 36 stitches. Work 3 sc in the marked stitch. Sc in the last 2 stitches. Sl st to the first sc to join. [82 stitches]
- Move stitch markers.
- Round 4: Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch. Sc in the next 35 stitches. Work 3 sc in the marked stitch. Sc in the next 38 stitches. Work 3 sc in the marked stitch. Sc in the last 2 stitches. Sl st to the first sc to join. [86 stitches]
- Move stitch markers.
- Round 5: Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch. Sc in the next 36 stitches. Work 3 sc in the marked stitch. Sc in the next 40 stitches. Work 3 sc in the marked stitch. Sc in the last 2 stitches. Sl st to the first sc to join. [90 stitches]
- Your base should now measure approximately 12 inches long and 4-5 inches wide.
1B. Body of the Tote
Now, we’ll work straight up to form the walls of the tote using single crochet for a dense, sturdy fabric.
- Round 6: Ch 1 (does NOT count as a stitch). Sc in the back loop only (BLO) of the same stitch as your join. Sc in the BLO of each stitch around. Sl st to the first sc to join. [90 stitches]
- This BLO round creates a defined edge for the base and helps the sides stand up straight.
- Round 7 – 50 (or desired height): Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch as join. Sc in each stitch around (working through both loops). Sl st to the first sc to join. [90 stitches]
- Repeat this round until your bag reaches approximately 13-13.5 inches (33-34 cm) tall from the base (this will be about 45 rounds after Round 6).
- Do NOT cut your yarn yet.
1C. Top Edging
This section creates a sturdy, finished rim for the opening of your tote bag.
- Round (Top Edging 1): Ch 1. Half double crochet (hdc) in the same stitch. Hdc in each stitch around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [90 hdc]
- Round (Top Edging 2): Ch 1. Hdc in the same stitch. Hdc in each stitch around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [90 hdc]
- DO NOT CUT your yarn yet, as you’ll use it for the handles.
1D. Handles
You will make two identical handles, crocheted directly onto the top edge of your bag.
- Handle Placement Preparation:
- Lay your bag flat and ensure the side seams are aligned.
- Using stitch markers, mark the placement for your handles. For a bag with 90 stitches, a good placement could be:
- Starting from any side seam, count 15 stitches along the top edge, place a marker.
- From that marker, count 20 stitches, place another marker (this will be the first handle attachment section).
- Count the next 25 stitches, place a marker (this is the gap for the armhole).
- From that marker, count 20 stitches, place another marker (this is the second handle attachment section).
- The remaining 10 stitches should meet the first marker (the second armhole gap).
- Round (Handle Base):
- Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch as join and in the next 19 stitches (to the first marker). [20 sc]
- Chain 40 (this creates the length of your first handle strap – adjust chain length for desired handle drop).
- Skip the next 25 stitches along the bag’s top edge (this creates the opening for your arm/hand).
- Sc in the next 20 stitches (to the second marker). [20 sc]
- Chain 40 (for your second handle strap).
- Skip the last 25 stitches along the bag’s top edge.
- Sl st to the first sc of the round to join.
- Round (Handle Reinforcement 1):
- Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch and in the next 19 stitches (working along the top edge of the bag).
- Now, sc in each of the 40 chain stitches you just made (working along the top of your first handle chain).
- Sc in the next 20 stitches (working along the bag’s top edge).
- Sc in each of the 40 chain stitches for your second handle.
- Sl st to the first sc to join. [120 sc total – (20+40+20+40)]
- Round (Handle Reinforcement 2):
- Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch. Sc in each stitch around (working along the bag edge stitches and then around the handle loops).
- Sl st to the first sc to join. [120 sc]
- FO, leaving a long tail for final weaving.
Part 2: Crocheting the Large Rose Flower
Now, let’s create the star of the show! We’ll build this rose in layers, making it large and dimensional. Use your chosen Rose Petal Color.
- Start: Make a Magic Ring (MR).
- Round 1 (Center): Ch 2 (does NOT count as a stitch). Work 10 dc into the MR. Pull the tail tight to close the ring. Sl st to the top of the first dc to join. [10 dc]
- Round 2 (Small Petals – Layer 1): Ch 1. Work (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) all in the next dc. Sl st into the next dc. Repeat from * to * 4 more times. You will have 5 small petals. Sl st into the first sc to join.
- Behind the petals: Ch 1, working into the back of Round 1, make a sl st around each dc post from Round 1, behind the petals. You should create 10 sl sts around the posts. Sl st to the first sl st to join. [10 sl sts] (This creates a new “ridge” of stitches to work into for the next layer).
- Round 3 (Medium Petals – Layer 2): Ch 2 (does NOT count as a stitch). Work (hdc, 3 dc, hdc) all into the next sl st. Sl st into the next sl st. Repeat from * to * 4 more times. You will have 5 medium petals. Sl st into the first hdc to join.
- Behind the petals: Ch 1, working into the back of Round 2, make a sl st around each dc post from Round 2, behind the petals. You should create 10 sl sts around the posts. Sl st to the first sl st to join. [10 sl sts]
- Round 4 (Large Petals – Layer 3): Ch 2 (does NOT count as a stitch). Work (hdc, 5 dc, hdc) all into the next sl st. Sl st into the next sl st. Repeat from * to * 4 more times. You will have 5 large petals. Sl st into the first hdc to join.
- Behind the petals: Ch 1, working into the back of Round 3, make a sl st around each dc post from Round 3, behind the petals. You should create 10 sl sts around the posts. Sl st to the first sl st to join. [10 sl sts]
- Round 5 (Extra Large Petals – Layer 4): Ch 3 (does NOT count as a stitch). Work (dc, 5 tr, dc) all into the next sl st. Sl st into the next sl st. Repeat from * to * 4 more times. You will have 5 extra large petals. Sl st into the first dc to join.
- FO, leaving a very long tail (at least 24-30 inches / 60-75 cm) for attaching the rose to the bag.
Optional: Leaves for the Rose (Green Yarn)
Make 2-3 leaves if desired.
- Ch 10.
- Sl st in 2nd ch from hook. Sc in next ch. Hdc in next ch. Dc in next 3 ch. Hdc in next ch. Sc in next ch. Sl st in last ch.
- Ch 2 (forms a small point at the end of the leaf).
- Working down the other side of the starting chain: Sl st in first ch, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next 3 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, sl st in last ch.
- FO, leaving a tail for attaching.
Part 3: Assembling Your Tote Bag
- Weave in All Bag Ends: Before attaching the rose, ensure all yarn tails from the tote bag (base, body, top edging, handles) are securely woven in. This makes the bag neat and durable.
- Attach Leaves (Optional): If you made leaves, use your yarn needle to securely sew them onto the back of your large rose, arranging them as desired.
- Position the Rose: Lay your finished tote bag flat. Decide where you want the large rose to sit. Typically, it looks best centered on one side of the bag, slightly below the top edging, but not so low that it gets caught when putting things in or taking them out.
- Securely Attach the Rose:
- Using the long tail from your rose (or a fresh piece of matching yarn), thread it onto your yarn needle.
- Starting from the back of the rose, push the needle through a sturdy part of the rose (like the center or near the base of a petal) and then through the fabric of the tote bag.
- Work a neat whip stitch or a small running stitch to sew the rose firmly to the bag. Go around the entire outer edge of the rose’s base, ensuring all layers are secured. Stitch through the back of the rose and the bag fabric multiple times in different directions to ensure it’s very robust and won’t flop or detach. Take your time to make these stitches as invisible as possible on the front of the rose.
- Once fully attached, weave in any remaining tail from the rose securely on the inside of the bag.
- Final Shaping/Blocking (Optional):
- You can lightly mist the entire bag and rose with water.
- Gently shape the bag’s base and sides. For the rose, gently arrange the petals to create the desired dimension and fluffiness. Allow it to air dry completely. Blocking helps define stitches and sets the overall shape.
Your unique and beautiful Crochet Tote Bag with a Large Rose Flower is now complete! It’s a wonderful handmade accessory that’s sure to turn heads.
