Bag

πŸ‘œ How to Crochet a Classic Tote Bag – Step by Step Pattern

Let’s get started on a fantastic project: crocheting a versatile and sturdy tote bag! This tutorial will guide you through creating a practical and stylish bag that’s perfect for everyday use, market trips, or carrying your essentials. We’ll focus on a classic, solid-color design that highlights the stitches and craftsmanship, but you can easily adapt it for stripes or color blocks if you feel adventurous later.

How to Crochet a Classic Tote Bag

This pattern is designed to be straightforward, making it an excellent project for anyone comfortable with basic crochet stitches and working in the round.

Skill Level: Easy to Intermediate

You’ll need to be comfortable with:

  • Basic crochet stitches: chain, slip stitch, single crochet, half double crochet.
  • Working in joined rounds.
  • Creating a flat oval base.
  • Working straight sides.

Finished Tote Bag Dimensions (Approximate):

  • Width (flat): 12 inches (30.5 cm)
  • Height (without handles): 14 inches (35.5 cm)
  • Handle Drop: 10 inches (25 cm)

Materials You’ll Need:

  • Yarn: Approximately 500-700 yards (450-640 meters) of Worsted Weight (Medium #4) Cotton or Cotton Blend Yarn. Cotton is highly recommended for tote bags because it’s durable, sturdy, and washable, and it holds its shape well.
    • Color: Choose one main color for a cohesive look.
  • Crochet Hook: Size H/5.0mm or the hook size that gives you a firm, dense fabric that won’t stretch much when the bag is filled. A tighter gauge generally works best for bags.
  • Yarn Needle (Tapestry Needle): Essential for seamlessly weaving in all your loose ends.
  • Scissors
  • Stitch Markers (Recommended): Helpful for marking the beginning of rounds and the corners of your base.

Gauge (Crucial for Consistent Size!):

Maintaining a consistent gauge is vital for your tote bag to achieve the intended size and shape, ensuring it’s sturdy and well-proportioned.

  • For the main body (single crochet stitches): 15 single crochet stitches and 16 rows = 4 inches (10 cm).
  • Adjust your hook size if necessary to meet this gauge.

Abbreviations Used:

  • ch: chain
  • sl st: slip stitch
  • sc: single crochet
  • hdc: half double crochet
  • st(s): stitch(es)
  • inc: increase (work 2 stitches into the same stitch)
  • BLO: back loop only
  • FO: fasten off
  • (): repeat instructions within parentheses a specified number of times.
  • []: indicates the total number of stitches at the end of a round.

Understanding Tote Bag Construction:

Your tote bag will be built in a few key parts:

  1. Flat Oval Base: This creates a sturdy foundation, allowing your bag to sit flat.
  2. Bag Body: The main sides of the tote, worked straight up from the base.
  3. Top Edging: This reinforces the bag’s opening, giving it a neat, finished look.
  4. Handles: Sturdy crocheted handles will be integrated directly into the top.

Let’s Start Crocheting Your Classic Tote Bag!

Part 1: Base of the Tote

We’ll begin by creating a sturdy, flat oval base for your bag.

  1. Chain 37.
  2. Round 1: Single crochet (sc) in the 2nd chain from your hook. Sc in the next 34 chains. Work 3 sc in the very last chain. (Now you’ll be working down the other side of your starting chain). Sc in the next 34 chains. Work 2 sc in the very last chain (this is the same chain as your first sc of the round). Slip stitch (sl st) to the first sc to join. [74 stitches]
    • Tip: Place stitch markers in the middle stitch of the 3-sc group at each end of the oval. These will be your “corner” stitches where you’ll make increases in subsequent rounds to maintain the oval shape.
  3. Round 2: Chain 1 (does NOT count as a stitch). Sc in the same stitch as your join. Sc in the next 33 stitches. Work 3 sc in the marked stitch (your old corner). Sc in the next 34 stitches. Work 3 sc in the marked stitch (your other old corner). Sc in the last 2 stitches. Sl st to the first sc to join. [78 stitches]
    • Remember to move your stitch markers to the middle stitch of each new 3-sc group.
  4. Round 3: Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch. Sc in the next 34 stitches. Work 3 sc in the marked stitch. Sc in the next 36 stitches. Work 3 sc in the marked stitch. Sc in the last 2 stitches. Sl st to the first sc to join. [82 stitches]
    • Move stitch markers.
  5. Round 4: Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch. Sc in the next 35 stitches. Work 3 sc in the marked stitch. Sc in the next 38 stitches. Work 3 sc in the marked stitch. Sc in the last 2 stitches. Sl st to the first sc to join. [86 stitches]
    • Move stitch markers.
  6. Round 5: Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch. Sc in the next 36 stitches. Work 3 sc in the marked stitch. Sc in the next 40 stitches. Work 3 sc in the marked stitch. Sc in the last 2 stitches. Sl st to the first sc to join. [90 stitches]
    • Your base should now measure approximately 12 inches long and 4-5 inches wide.

Part 2: Body of the Tote

Now, we’ll work straight up to form the walls of the tote. We’ll use single crochet for a dense, sturdy fabric.

  1. Round 6: Ch 1 (does NOT count as a stitch). Sc in the back loop only (BLO) of the same stitch as your join. Sc in the BLO of each stitch around. Sl st to the first sc to join. [90 stitches]
    • This BLO round creates a defined edge for the base and helps the sides stand up straight.
  2. Round 7 – 50 (or desired height): Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch as join. Sc in each stitch around (working through both loops). Sl st to the first sc to join. [90 stitches]
    • Repeat this round until your bag reaches approximately 13-13.5 inches (33-34 cm) tall from the base (this will be about 45 rounds after Round 6).
    • Do NOT cut your yarn yet.

Part 3: Top Edging

This section creates a sturdy, finished rim for the opening of your tote bag.

  1. Round (Top Edging 1): Ch 1. Half double crochet (hdc) in the same stitch. Hdc in each stitch around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [90 hdc]
  2. Round (Top Edging 2): Ch 1. Hdc in the same stitch. Hdc in each stitch around. Sl st to the first hdc to join. [90 hdc]
    • DO NOT CUT your yarn yet, as you’ll use it for the handles.

Part 4: Handles

You will make two identical handles, crocheted directly onto the top edge of your bag.

  1. Handle Placement Preparation:
    • Lay your bag flat and ensure the side seams are aligned.
    • Using stitch markers, mark the placement for your handles. For a bag with 90 stitches, a good placement could be:
      • Starting from any side seam, count 15 stitches along the top edge, place a marker.
      • From that marker, count 20 stitches, place another marker (this will be the first handle attachment section).
      • Count the next 25 stitches, place a marker (this is the gap for the armhole).
      • From that marker, count 20 stitches, place another marker (this is the second handle attachment section).
      • The remaining 10 stitches should meet the first marker (the second armhole gap).
  2. Round (Handle Base):
    • Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch as join and in the next 19 stitches (to the first marker). [20 sc]
    • Chain 40 (this creates the length of your first handle strap – adjust chain length for desired handle drop).
    • Skip the next 25 stitches along the bag’s top edge (this creates the opening for your arm/hand).
    • Sc in the next 20 stitches (to the second marker). [20 sc]
    • Chain 40 (for your second handle strap).
    • Skip the last 25 stitches along the bag’s top edge.
    • Sl st to the first sc of the round to join.
  3. Round (Handle Reinforcement 1):
    • Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch and in the next 19 stitches (working along the top edge of the bag).
    • Now, sc in each of the 40 chain stitches you just made (working along the top of your first handle chain).
    • Sc in the next 20 stitches (working along the bag’s top edge).
    • Sc in each of the 40 chain stitches for your second handle.
    • Sl st to the first sc to join. [120 sc total – (20+40+20+40)]
  4. Round (Handle Reinforcement 2):
    • Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch. Sc in each stitch around (working along the bag edge stitches and then around the handle loops).
    • Sl st to the first sc to join. [120 sc]
    • FO, leaving a long tail for final weaving.

Part 5: Finishing Your Tote Bag

  1. Weave in All Ends: This is the most crucial step for a professional-looking and durable bag. Methodically thread each yarn tail onto your yarn needle. Carefully weave them through several stitches on the inside of the bag, making them secure and invisible from the outside.
  2. Shape: Gently shape your bag, ensuring the base is flat and the sides stand upright.
  3. Optional: Stiffen the Handles: If your crocheted handles feel too soft or floppy, you can line them with a piece of cotton webbing or carefully spray them with fabric stiffener and let them dry while stretched straight (you can pin them to a blocking mat).
  4. Optional: Add a Fabric Lining: For even greater durability, to prevent small items from potentially slipping through stitches, or to add pockets, consider sewing a fabric lining for your tote bag. This is typically done after all crocheting is complete.

Your beautiful and functional Classic Crochet Tote Bag is now complete! Enjoy using your fantastic handmade creation.

Tutorial Video

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